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CrabStick wrote: Thanks LPB I really enjoyed both of those. I'm not qualified to give commentary Nor am I, but I'll do it anyway. but you look to be very efficient and getting plenty of push from the waves, only digging in the power when you have to. Thanks, I'm mainly trying not to fall out of the boat - then trying to be smooth. It looks to be very effective when you are matching wave direction first and then powering on (without overdoing it). Agree.
My plan is to always have a 'green' wave pushing me along. I strive to aim the boat across an 'orange' wave face. It seldom happens, but I'll keep trying. The south shore is ideal for experimenting - learning to turn the boat... Most of what I'm doing in these videos is exploiting the glide of the 12 - not truly surfing smart and sprinting onto good orange waves (like Boyan). I'm not stable enough in the 12, but it's crazy good fun. I can surf a lot smarter (and faster) in the 8P. Those strokes are not very powerful. I'm sorta going thru the motions. It's keeping me in the bucket more than zooming like that boat wants to. But I'll keep trying.
The conditions are mouth-watering with all those beautiful wave intersections to work with and the lighting is awesome to make these visible in your video. This helps it to be a good learning tool as it is actually apparent what you are anticipating and chasing. That's usually tough for most people to see. Most people are too heavily focused on the bigger 'orange' swell train. A little green bump ahead is also part of a windswell train. It's tough to spot and the one pushing me is under the boat. So, two trains of wave faces. One is usually bigger than the other. Timing the momentum so that the nose is always downhill is the goal.
In these videos, it's occasionally easier to see the greens pushing me onto an orange because I'm bouncing between two equally sized windswell trains. Sort of like a ball bouncing between two walls. That's not very common, but it sure is fun. Most of the green ones pushing me are very subtle and hard to spot on a video.
I use 'linear' view to prevent the gopro from flattening the waves out front. It's a 'narrow' view, so that's the tradeoff. With 'linear' the size of the waves is more consistent with reality. Wide angle views are horrible for watching downwind. Early gopros had no linear views, only fisheyes. It was so bad that there was an aftermarket for linear lenses. Fisheye lenses are great for selfies, but anything further than 20 feet ahead was flat as a pancake.
Would it be fair to say that the wind waves and swell were fairly well matched in size if not speed? Yes. The south shore run has zero fetch. The videos are 3 and 6 miles downrange - not enough distance for groundswells to develop. It's all windswell. Some days straight down the line, some onshore, some offshore...
Here is a pic of my depth. About 60 feet, so a 5 second swell is just about to feel the bottom of the ocean. I doubt the swell period in these videos is much more than a few seconds. Charts like this on the north shore are valuable to me - especially in the winter. The swell periods can get much longer and the reefs are happy to lend a hand if Mother Nature decides it's time to smash a few boats. Ha ha. I've been lucky, no smashed boats, but several leashes and a few stitches. Minor stuff.
That being said, two distinct trains are usually running (and they reform as they march along). One goes out to sea (and carries further/longer). The other one is going toward the shore. It usually has steeper faces. As they reform, speeds and sizes vary. As a general rule, when the boat is aimed out to sea, the swell carries longer.
What was wind speed? No idea. Strong enough to set up those conditions, but it often fades later in the run.
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LaPerouseBay wrote: I'm not stable enough in the 12, but it's crazy good fun. I can surf a lot smarter (and faster) in the 8P. Those strokes are not very powerful. I'm sorta going thru the motions. It's keeping me in the bucket more than zooming like that boat wants to. But I'll keep trying.
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