Dean Gardiner Claims French-Polynesian Title

Dean Gardiner takes full advantage of the stunning conditions in this year’s Ocean Paddler World Series Mara’amu Surfski Race, from Tahaa to Bora-Bora. Credits: Ian Rambo

“You’ve got 200m on Lewis (Laughlin)!” shouts race-organiser-extraordinaire Sebastien Mosole to Dean Gardiner, as the course doglegs north from the Turiroa lighthouse. The 20 knot tailwinds and 3m swell conditions that Dean revels in have served him well for the last 31km’s, but the race is his to lose as paddlers battle against this same wind for the final 8km’s entering the only ‘pass’ through Bora-Bora’s otherwise impassable reef.

“150m!” shouts Sebastien though the megaphone from one of 20 support boats for this year’s race.

“I told myself I wasn’t going to look over my shoulder for the first 2km after the lighthouse,” said Dean, who said he put his head down, trying to focus on keeping his boat speed above 11km/h on his Garmin.

“There were 4 paddlers behind me and catching, including Lewis Laughlin, Mihimana Aming, Eric Dean and Rauhiri Varuahi, all capable of grinding me down on their own.”

Left or Right?

Screenshot of Dean’s Garmin trace

From the explosive start at the Tiva Pass on the reef off Tahaa Island, the iconic profile of Bora-Bora, with Mt Otemanu’s 627m peak, was only just visible through the spray and salt-laden winds, some 30-odd km almost directly downwind. Many (myself included) followed Sebastien’s advice to aim for the peak, and once out in the channel swing further left (west) to take maximum advantage of the bigger runs in the middle of the channel. 

Lewis (with most of the local boys in tow) opted for a more southerly course for the first half of the race, but traded this for a slightly more northerly run with Dean crossing Lewis' path about 200m in front after the half-way mark.

Pre-race Preparations

We had arrived at Tahaa, "the Vanilla Island" the afternoon before after a draining, rough-as-guts, 5 hour catamaran trip from Bora-Bora. After a much smoother, shorter crossing to the nearby island of Raitea to fetch the remaining paddlers, we returned to Tahaa and were welcomed with the traditional lei or floral wreath each, and an amazing display of traditional Tahitian drumming, music and dancing.

Dean and I were welcomed like royalty and called up to dance, although I was brought down to earth quickly with the realisation that Rambo now has some seriously incriminating footage of us dancing with the traditional dancers, bound to make it’s way to the interweb sooner or later. (Rambo, don’t forget, I have some evidence of my own, mate…)

Welcome ceremony at Tahaa seeing paddlers treated to a demonstration of traditional Tahitian dancing and drumming.

Polynesia’s Paddling Cultural Connection

The deep cultural connection that the French Polynesian people have with paddling is moving and immediately obvious, with events starting and ending with prayers and blessings bestowed upon competitors and craft.

The competitors stop to pose for Rambo’s lens just before the start.

Rambo, Dean and I were lodged in a house surrounded by vanilla plants and tropical fruit trees, adjacent to the main hall that was to be the lodging and dining facilities for the rest of the delegation.

Dean’s experience with these parts was obvious, as he proceeded to shut all the windows and doors and smoke out the house with thick, green noxious fumes of 100 slow-burning mosquito coils. So, no mozzies, and while I can’t say I had the best night’s sleep ever, the doctor says my sense of taste will return within a few weeks. (Thanks mate!)

Dean and Rambo check out the digs for the wider delegation at Tahaa.

Race Conditions

We awoke on Saturday to the long promised wind, which has been steadily blowing 20 plus knots since our arrival a week before. Although this has changed from the south-easterly Mara’amu trade wind overnight to a more easterly wind, the swell was running from an easterly direction as well, making for some great racing.

The temperature was mid-20s Centigrade and the sun was shining on the warm blue waters. Flying fish launched themselves from many of the wave-crests, one of which smacked into my ski (they look small and dainty, but that sounded pretty solid!) and I had a small dolphin pop up to say hello on the way back to Bora-Bora.

Dean working the swells on the approach to Baro-Bora.

While I consider myself an above-average club-level paddler in downwind conditions, the runs were very technical in the middle of the channel (half way between the islands) unlike stuff you would find in Aus or NZ where most of my training has occurred in the last few years.

Often, just as I would start to get my mojo going, and start to link a few runs together nicely, boat wash from the various support vessels would snap me back to reality. I found the best runs to be had were the ones tracking parallel to the reef before turning North on the approach to the pass: smaller wind-swell, but rideable for hundreds of meters, Dean’s GPS topping 22km/h regularly over this section.

The Finish

A relieved Dean Gardiner crosses the finish line only 7 seconds ahead of a chasing Lewis Laughlin.

The wicked cross/head winds at the final few km’s threatened to tear our very paddles out of our hands. The TV crew helicopter added to Dean’s woe’s, almost losing his cap. I admit to niggling arm-cramps in places I never knew I had, and blame this on the strong headwinds over those last few kms.

The experience at the finish line was unique.

My wife Kelly had been drawn in by the many volunteers who helped to make this race as amazing as it was. They had travelled out to the Motu Tapu (small island in the coral reef, a few km’s off the main island of Bora-Bora) the day before to decorate this with woven palm fronds, local flowers of every colour and prepare the amazing traditional food. The relaxed islanders made Kelly feel absolutely at home, and she had an amazing time weaving palm leaf baskets and preparing wreaths, making many new friends in the process.

Polynesian Hospitality at its Best!

The final event in the itinerary for this year’s race was the prize-giving at the legendary Bloody Mary’s. Free-flowing local brew ‘Hinano’, fabulous food, an awesome contemporary band and a fabulously generous prize pool was just the way to wrap up the proceedings.

I was lucky enough to bag a voucher with local legendary tattoo artist Marama Olson for my efforts, ensuring that the race and experience remains unforgettable.

Polynesian tattoo culture runs deep, and this race has left a very tangible mark on me!

(Right to Left) Dean Gardiner(1st), Lewis Laughlin (2nd) and Mihimana Aming (3rd) celebrate their winnings at the post race proceedings at Bloody Mary’s.

“To me the Mara’amu is not just a race: I want this event to be a story and a journey!” proclaims Sebstien Mosole.

Clearly he has succeeded here, with the race attracting significant media attention locally, featuring on national TV news, and proclaimed by the local paddling fraternity as unlike any other race around.

Sebastien is infectiously enthusiastic about this event, exuding passion for the sport and for the development of this in general. While initially I struggled to find answers to all the details associated the logistic challenges of a race of this nature, I can personally vouch for the absolute attention to detail and tremendous organisational skill that Sebastien and crew have exhibited. No loose ends have escaped here, and it is immediately clear that he has a fantastic crew ensuring the success of the event.

RAMBO vs. ROCKY: Paddlers overcome language barriers at Bloody Mary’s, as demonstrated by Ian Rambo and Rocky Poroi!

Local friendships have developed, and there are plenty of stories from this year’s event, most of which won’t make it into a write-up or onto a website. Without a doubt, these have made this the most memorable race that I have ever done. I remain eternally grateful for the tremendous hospitality shown by Sebastien and family (Dani, Fetia, Fanatea), Sebatien's partner-in-crime Carl, Jonathan, Marama, Noho and all the other paddlers and people who have made our stay so personal and memorable.

Also a special thanks to Dean, Lewis and Rambo, who all have so much to give for this sport that we love. Spending time with you guys is humbling.

My advice to anyone wishing to travel here for future events is as follows:

Firstly, if you want to do the race, simply enter, and buy your tickets. I can promise you the rest will fall into place. There is nothing unorganised about this experience - your every need will be sorted by Sebastien and his able crew.

Secondly, Bora-Bora is a world-leading holiday destination for many, many reasons. Make the most of this! Bring the family, and reserve some time to explore the mountains, the coral reefs, the islands and the fabulous sea-food. With the The Mara’amu Surfski race already one of the leading surfski events on the Pacific calendar, I look immensely forward to the 5th anniversary of the race on the second week of September 2013, and will be bringing Kelly and the boys for sure!

Results - 2012 Maar'amu Surfski Race