Finally some wind! 30kt gusting to 37. Raging seas. Consistent 6'+ waves with standouts over 7'. Short period, 5-6 second, but FAST in spite of the short period. Too fast to hop on unless you caught a boost from secondary swell or found a good hole to drop in on.
Rowdy, steep, open water breaking waves. I was a half mile off shore and just turned around to go downwind after slogging upwind at a pathetic 3kts for what felt like forever.
I heard a crash behind me and looked back to see a standout crumbling on itself a few waves back, looked like a monster 8'+ set. I hammered hard - the first couple leading waves passed under me with a nice boost but then a hard stall on the backside. Then the big one came. Although I was almost completely stopped, it was so steep I hardly had to paddle to catch it. It violently picked up my tail and I wobbled for a second. I felt like I was looking straight down for a moment, then took off like a rocket down the steep face. As I started to fly down the face I quickly turned to the side and hammer hard to stay on it.
Pow, did it - a hole opened up in front of me and I hopped the wave in front. That run died out and the monster in the middle of the set caught me again. This time it started to curl over and the top foot or 2 began to break just as it picked me up again. I sprinted hard and caught the best run of the night - the wave continued to crumble behind me and pushed me along for a good ride. It felt just like riding small shorebreak, but I was 6' up on a wave with another 2' of white water pushing me and a half mile out! Rowdy.
I went for 2 unexpected swims and 2 intentional practice remounts. Although it always feels sketchy in the moment (looking at steep 6' waves or whatever), I always practice remounts in the worst conditions I paddle in. I think this practice is key to having confidence in the big stuff and not worrying too much about falling out. I fall out all the time (though mostly when stopped, dicking around, or chasing a ferry wake).
One learning lesson of the night - one of the times i went for an unintentional swim I was on the downwind side and had to pop under the boat to get upwind to remount. I went under the bucket but the ski slipped out of my hand for a split second and blew (a few feet) away! Of course I was leashed to the boat and had no problem getting it back, but I always try to act as if I dont have a leash and maintain hand contact with the boat at all times. I will be more careful when going under the ski next time!
The jet stream is not sending any consistent wind to southern california this year, so I am very happy to have a good windy night! Looks like the next week might provide a couple more waves of wind too.
In spite of all the corona virus madness, at least the ocean remains the same. Stay well everyone