California has had some crazy wind and waves this week. We had 35kt wind and higher gusts a couple days ago, 25kt on monday, and ~18-23kt last night. Maverick's (a very famous surf spot by San Francisco) had 20+ footers all week. My area had 6-11ft waves and small craft advisory all week.
Further south by LA, I looked at the ocean Monday and Tuesday and decided it was too hectic to attempt. Waves were critical in open water and breaking everywhere and anywhere. Yesterday finally calmed down a little bit and I went out in some of the biggest conditions I've felt comfortable going out in (and only 1 swim
).
7-8ft is no freaking joke. Its the first time I've been a mile off shore and had double overhead+ swell pass by regularly. Steep swell too. When the 4.5ft ground swell merged with the 3-7ft wind swell, it easily produced 8+ footers with a much steeper face than usual. I almost thought one monster was going to break on me in open water but it fell apart just before it got to me (thankfully). I've been out in 7 ft swell a few timesl, but typically its longer period, like 12-18 second. This was much shorter due to the high winds and a steep faced 8 ft wall of water is quite intimidating!
last week we had large ultra long period swell, like 2.5ft @ 22 seconds according to surfline. When it slowed down and stacked up a couple hundreds yards off shore they were easily the same size as last night or bigger. Probably 7-10 feet before they went critical but I wasnt riding them, just floating along. I had a blissful moment sitting just outside the far edge of the surf zone watching a monster set crash in. On that standout wave of the night, I was eye level with the wall in the parking lot so my head was easily 12+ft above the trough. With the ultra long period swell like that, I cannot believe how much power is in the wave when it breaks. I wonder how many gallons of water is in a wave like that...
it makes me wonder, how do you aussies get through 6'+ surf on a regular basis? I have practiced going through surf up to about 4', but more than that an im afraid of damaging my boat (and generally getting clobbered).
Anyone else go out and enjoy the waves of the week?