General questions on repairing an EPIC Elite.

I am working on a 2012 Elite V10. It has a few sins that need to be addressed.
1. Clearcoat failed. The previous owner had it coated. He said the guy used car clear coat. I have removed the clearcoat. Please recommend what is a good replacement clearcoat product. Preferred number of coats? If more than one is it best to do when tacky?
2. There is one "L" shaped hole on the very bottom no bigger than a pencil eraser (see pic below). Patch or fill? 
3. Topside, halfway back from the bow to the footwell it took a blow long ago (see pic). Very slight bit of play. Any thoughts on this? The stringer seems structurally sound.
4.  Hull discolorization (coffee cup rings for lack of a better word). These are all over the boat and somewhat related to where the clearcoat was missing. What exactly are these whitish circle shapes? I took a power washer to them with no effect. A light sanding does lessen them but I want to refrain from too much sanding.
5. I really do not know how long the ski was used with these sins. What is the preferred way to prep the boat? Multiple rinses with fresh water inside and out and then store in a dry place for a few weeks? How much concern is there to seal in salt/impurities?
6. The seam line or tape line. Does anyone have a a cross section view of that including the hull? Is this 100% plastic? Replaceable? When they sprayed the clear coat it seams like all of the runs were on this. 

I am not an expert. You need a reply from Ranga for that.

The 'blow' damage would worry me. A lot of the rigidity of a composite surfski comes from the honeycomb structure - think of cardboard, crush the board and even though the outside is intact, the cardboard has lost rigidity.

The damage in your picture looks severe. It would take a lot to break the carbon strands like that. 

I strongly suspect that Ranga would say 'cut area out, fill honeycomb with epoxy, patch back with new carbon'. He is the expert though, I'd wait for his response.

The one saving grace (I think) is that it is beside the stringer which gives it some artificial rigidity. I do welcome Ranga's thoughts.

I was wondering if drilling some small holes throughout the area and injecting epoxy into the honeycomb would be an option. Then a patch above.

The previous owner stated he did not know it was there. It was used as it is. I will give him the benefit of the doubt. I did not see it until removing all of the crumbling clearcoat.

I will do my best put integrity back into her.

The has not been well looked after although it can be done.
I seen no issues with the damage, minor stuff, yes you can fill the cracks with epoxy, I doubt it needs anything over the top but the pictures don't give any scale or position to be 100% sure.
You have to remove all the coating left on the ski and then let it dry out properly, you will have moisture in the honeycombe that is making it white.
The best paint is a polyurethane 2 K but for a quick cheap fix you can just coat with epoxy resin and use a plastic scraper, not a brush and scrape basically as much or the resin off before it dries and that will come out quite nicely. not more that 100ml, more like 50ml will be enough.

Thanks Ranga,

I had talked to Bruce at EPIC about the finishes. He said pretty much the same. He said there is a guy who does an epoxy wipe. I am somewhat inclined to go that route. I think it would adhere the best and restore the surface. If I don't like it then I can always 2K it. I'll be using West 205 and 207. For the small puncture I used some epoxy and a dental tool to push in some fiberglass chop. I am going to nix any thought of a patch on top given your response. Thanks again.

You may get a kick out of how I took the clearcoat off. Some came off easy some didn't. My technique I think kept more of he carbon fiber intact. I didn't want to sand it away. 

I thought I'd post an update as things are progressing. Worked on cleaning the hull, the seams, and the rudder well.