Stumbled across the source of an Iconic picture

I had found this pic in a google search a couple years ago and thought it looked photoshopped. I thought, well that guy got killed by that wave. 



Well I found the source and indeed it is real! the interview is pretty cool, and there is even a video of the event in the pics. He sounds pretty calm about it considering a 30' wave was closing out fast! In his defense though, The Wedge does have a very focused break, so you dont need to travel very far to get outside the critical zone. He was a lifeguard in the area for years and knew exactly where the wave broke and where was safe. He said he wasnt even sprinting out of the way. 



Still though, whether hes dumb or got the biggest balls on earth, I dont know, but it looks pretty damn fun as long as you're out of there in time

Full interview -  www.surfskinews.com/faces-2016/2016/9/6/...prout-chasing-giants
Video - 

That's insane. I watched the video. In my mind, that's what the waves seemed like in my first ocean race last weekend. In reality, I think they were posted on my weather app as 5-8 feet.