Question..

Heya, new to the Fenn range (from Epic) - paddling a Glide.
Anyone know what you should do with this odd hole in the deck, apparently this is normal for Fenn, but are you supposed to tape it up or something?

I was out today and took a few swims, when I got back to shore there was a helluvalotta water in the hull.
This design seems pretty strange to me, why wouldn't you have a plug?

Pic attached.........

Grab yourself one of these www.oceanpaddler.com/store/accessories/fenn-bung-pack-of-5/ or just put a bit of tape accross the hole.

Thanks keithnix. 2 of those bungs came with the ski - I assumed they were for the (2x) bailers.
Really odd that Fenn would leave a gaping hole in the deck, needing to be covered by a strip of gaffa tape?!

Yeah the bung's are for the hole but they always fall out (apparently). Most of us tape over the hole, never get water inside your hull that way, make sure you wash out the salt water with plenty of fresh water and a little soap and dry thoroughly before you tape it up. I put a nice sticker over mine, been like that for a year now, there is no water in the hull and shouldn't be unless you get a leak somewhere.

It's not that hard to make a small leash so you don't lose the bung...

Fenn XT


Fenn mako6

This design seems to allow full draining, unlike designs with integrated plugs, which invariably leave water inside (especially if installed like Epic and Think have them, though the Think at least is big so you can sponge out the last few spoonfuls)

You can get one of these from Huki. You may have to hog out the hole a bit, or sand down the rubber plug. Cut the snorkel tube to the length you want. A couple of inches below where it inserts into the hull, cut a slit in the snorkel, and either thread the remaining piece perpendicular, or stick a zip tie on it, to prevent it from being lost if it should pop out.

I've also just put a square of white duct tape over it and with a punch perforated the center so it allows for 'breathing.'

hamishglen wrote: Really odd that Fenn would leave a gaping hole in the deck, needing to be covered by a strip of gaffa tape?!

Probably just forgot to pack it, or its fallen out during transit.

There has to be a drain hole somewhere because it is impossible to be 100% air and water tight. Pressure change with temperature means air is going to leak somewhere, otherwise the sealed hull would deform in extreme temperatures. Air movement means there will always be some water movement, even if it is just from humidity.

If there are no little air leaks anywhere then the plug itself can shoot out in hot weather, which is probably why they have a reputation for mysteriously going awol.

A sticker or tape will be fine, in the event that water does build up its still simple to drain and replace the tape, and if there is an extreme pressure difference the sticker blister will pop long before the hull is in danger.

A little pin hole in the sticker should ensure air and water isnt drawn in from a wet seal point, such as the bottom of the rudder tube. Something has to give and the air will find the weakest bit of glue or screw hole, you want that point to be as dry as possible.

I was always losing by bung so I just have a piece of tape across the hole.

The little black straw thing sticking out is a breather so you can leave the tape in all the time.

Sticker it is - (once I get all the salt water out)

Thanks all!

Stellar drain plug easy to fit with a couple of tech screws. Plastic, weighs couple of grams, has a tiny hole in cap to breath. Clips down easily (paddle will do it if you forget before hitting the water).




www.stellarkayaks.com.au/Hardware.html

Wow - good on Stellar for having all spare parts available, and in such an easy to read/find format, even down to the decals.

All manufacturers should follow suit.

Or you could put your arm into the hatches you had fitted, with a chamois

ha! good idea.

OT: what leg adjustment system is that? I haven't seen it before

Ric wrote: ha! good idea.

OT: what leg adjustment system is that? I haven't seen it before

A carbon plate slides down and locks in the bottom with a little pin
the plate and peddles are actually one piece with thickened carbon on the bits you don't want to flex

You can install a different plug system (like the stellar or similar as mentioned above) but don't forget that you will need:
1. Make the plug hole slightly larger
2. Line up your new plug before drilling your two holes
3. Use alu rivets (not screws) for the two holes
4. Most important: seal the entire plug with clear silicone, and don't forget to put silicone on top of the two rivets

You will be so very surprised to see how much water will get into your boat without silicone on the rivets

I've heard on several occasions that it is not a good idea to use silicone on composite boats in areas where you expect to need to do repairs in the future - messes up with epoxy sticking to the fabric... Plus, from my own experience, silicone does not stick anywhere nearly as strongly as other adhesives, such as 3M 5200 marine.

Although, sandwiched between the plastic of the hatch rim and the deck silicone is good enough. I've done similar hatches and they were waterproof due mainly to the compression, not so much due to adhesion. There are some automotive sealants, like liquid gasket types used for oil pans that would work better than the typical bathroom sealant variety of silicone. Plus they come in black .