Construction/repair question

Repairing seam splits on a "Hangzhou" mfg. V10L , can anyone share construction details for the seam . Is the join only epoxied with 1" light weight FG on the exterior of the seam or is there more to it ? Is there any seam taping on the interior (and boy how do they do that ? , lay tape on one mold half , put them toghether and put light positive pressure through the bung to "push the tape to the seam ??????) any insight appreciated . suprised at the acute angle of the deck/hull seam line around the cockpit.

I recently added a stern grab loop on my performance lay up. I cut into the stern seam to insert my anchor plate. I found the seam very robust. I wouldn't hesitate to grind the exterior seam, and use glass/epoxy on the exterior for any repair needs.

Looking into the hull I noticed the deck and hull were just butted.

I have watched a pro repair a seam split with excellent results. Essentially, he drilled 1/8" holes at the center of the seam, 3/4" apart and the length of the split. Also, go beyond the split on each side with another drilled hole. Tip the ski with the holes facing down so the epoxy pools along the seam. Then inject epoxy with a syringe into each hole and cover with tape to cure. I'm sure that an experienced person can add or correct my description, but this procedure worked well.

I just repaired a Nelo Viper whose top bow was ripped off. Basically you want to use an epoxy. adding a filler to make more of a mud is easier. I actually used a two part putty mix. The thing that I found key is preparation. I used a dremle with various diamond bits to clean out the old and to give the epoxy as much surface area to allow a good bond. I found that there seemed to be about a 1/8 to 3/16th inch gap. You want to push or ooze the epoxy in enough that a portion oozes on the other side. If you would slice the hull the epoxy would look like an H or h in cross section view. Not pushing the epoxy in enough will make a weak seam. It is a lot like a drywall seam in house construction. Good Luck!

hi sandy

the deck on the epic ski's are just but jointed to the hull with methacrylate if you go epic international web site in the gallery section there are some photo's and in step 9 they show an epic sea kayak being joined.

when i cut the deck off my ski I didn't come aross any tape on the outside of the ski it the seam was more like a filler shaped to look like the old taped method there was also no tape on the inside of the ski.

when I joined the deck back on my ski I used west system g flex and just but jointed them back together and haven't had any prolems

the seam where the two meet is aproximately 6mm 1/4 of an inch wide then the outside seam cover on top of that and I would be very suprised if that is were it cracked.

in the attached photo you can see the darker patch along the seem were it is thicker and the methacrylate were it has ozed out of the seam when joined

Jamo , thanks for that insight and picture ! Now , you will be surprised , that is exactly where it cracked and in two places.

It's hard to tell, but on my V10 Sport (2011 model, Performance Layup, sold in the US), there is definitely something that looks like a tape along the seam on the outside. There is a gell coat on top of that tape on the outside, which is what is visible from the outside. Hard to tell what the tape is made off, but it is a tape of some sort. I have a small piece of gell coat fall off from on top of that tape (poor adhesion from the factory) so I can see that tape under the gel coat on the outside of the seam.

When I shine a light from the outside (through the hull I can see the light when I peek inside through the vent hole), I can see another outline as if from another tape, which is wider than the gel coat that is on the outside. I am not sure if this is actually a tape or the outline of some adhesive painted over on the outside or inside... I am not sure what this is - I can't see well enough through that hole and it is not visible from the outside like the tape under the gel coat seam is... And if it is on the inside, I have no idea how it got there - it covers the seam both above and below the join area. It could simply be reinforcements on both the deck and hull halfs to help with the but join and not actually something that joins them...

On a separate note, on mine the cross-members of the stinger (that go sideways from left to right) seem to be glued to what looks like carbon tape reinforcement points on the sides (the one in the photo above is not black, mine is). So I suppose there might be some differences in construction over the years and place of manufacture...

Hi Sandy

I found another photo that shows the thickness were the hull and deck meet and the methacrylate on the inside and definately no cloth over that.

for the repaire if the methacrylate has let go i would be getting renovator tools with about a 2mm max thick blade and running that along the split trying to go as far as possible through the seem with out going right through.

then get the dust out and filling it with g flex back to finish level of seam leave for 24 hrs.
after that light sand down and off to the car paint shop get a spray can mixed to match colour of the ski.

there are other ways though they will require a lot more work and be very hard to keep the ski looking like new.

and the use of car paint is the easiest way to match the colour and will handle the water fine

Jamo , this seam had been repaired previously by a "pro" who was keeping things cosmetically "like new" and this repair failed. I have laminated on the exterior (after sanding down to epoxy) a 2"carbon fiber seam tape extending 3" beyond ends of the cracks. It ain't like "new" but is substantially more solid than the previous repair and perhaps the original construction. We shall see !

the repair

What ever you do, be sure to drill a hole at each end of any cracks, this prevents the cracks extending further.

sandy

I know were your comeing from I spent $600 au on repaires to fix a problem with mine which kept recurring in the end decided to do some research and have ago myself cost another $400 for material and a fair bit of time and yes it is a bit heavier but dont have to worry anymore and aquired added some benifits not found on any other v10 sport.

good luck job looks neat so far