I've recently returned from the Mauritius Ocean Classic, however things did not go quite as planned. It was a spectacular week yet I was involved in a moderately traumatic event, that gave us all a fright. Nickie Mocke suggested i might record some observations, for others to consider as a result of my experience.
Essentially I was taken out by a set of big waves outside the Le Morne pass, whilst doing a group down-winder, the afternoon before the morning of the MOC race. The big wave (4m or so) caught me as it closed out, behind my ski, as I was moving up the wave (to avoid being capsized ironically).
The power of this thing breaking was awesome. The leg rope separated (a strong kite surfing leash), the ski disappeared and I lost the paddle after being dumped a second or third time. Although it was cinched tight, the pfd was nearly torn away by the white water rushing past each time. It was the best part of 2 hrs to get to shore, during which there was no guarantee i would make it. Unnerving.
We had started the run accompanied by a safety boat, and in a group. None of them saw me go down and none saw me over the next 2 hrs or so, as I fought to get back to land. Two hrs can seem a VERY LONG TIME, when you don't seem to be making any progress. Sobering.
Points of recollection; just how easy it is to say "don't panic" and how hard it can be to think dispassionately when being repeatedly held under for longish periods. Just how sobering it can be when you realize you have a limited time before night falls, or your energy runs out or you inhale water. Throw in currents, and tides slowing you reaching land, and a channel current pulling you away from the coast and you have a whole host of demons attacking your sanity. The mind becomes a battlefield as the cognitive part says don't panic, and the emotional part screams the urgency of the situation.
What were my take home points? Probably nothing new, but things that might have eased the loneliness a little;
1. Know its going to be hard.
Surprising just how powerful the negative emotions can be - they suck your strength, particularly when the options seem to be running out or not working. It took some time to realise i had to make ground under my own steam, that none of the other paddlers, kite boarders, wind surfers, or safety boat could see me. Effectively I was on my own. I had to deal with the heartbreak of not seeing land come closer, not being seen and knowing my resources were waning. I had to keep thoughts of my wife and kids out of my head-it only hurt and sapped the focus. I tried not to think of Ken Feathers.
Its one thing to know how to swim, its another thing entirely to stay afloat and alive, especially when you know there is a possibility you might NOT make it. It was very easy to see how people drown - it starts in the mind.
2. Cinch up that pfd as tight as tolerable - too damn easy to have it ripped off by strong waves. I now understand why victims drowned at deep sea are often found naked. The current/wash really can be that strong.
3. Have a loud whistle at hand. Cheap, easy, light. Not going to save you if no help is around, but why drown if there are ears nearby. I now like the SAFFA trick of having a cell phone in a waterproof case (just make sure it doesn't get ripped out of the pfd by the water). Epirb not a bad idea either.
4. Consider a paddle leash. I'm mourning the loss of my paddle after having lost it on the third time the white stuff got me. I dont like paddling with a paddle leash, however, had I the wit (and leash) I might have tied the paddle behind me as I swam to shore.
Another arguement for a paddle leash joining paddle and ski, I heard, was that one can swim to the ski (and leashed paddle) if you both hands free to move. This one is debateable, but after my experience, Im listening for all the one percenters out there.
Good trick
5. Get as fit as you can. It impressed me how pathetically weak I felt in the water. I would take a few strokes, get worn out and then float with my head in the water. Even shouting for help was tiring (and in my case, futile). Swimming with a pfd is a b....., try it sometime (but it keeps the head underwater)
6. Have a couple of pfds to paddle with. In big swell go for the higher rating pfd. The one I was using, was fairly rated as level 50- ( use in sheltered swimming, with help nearby) and velcro pockets. Needless to say, everything was ripped out of the pockets by the white water.
7. Learn as much from the surf lifesaving guys as you can. They've all been there. They have little tricks for dealing with capsized skis, hanging on to the ski and/or footstraps etc. Another is to grasp the leg rope as the ski pulls away, in order to lessen the force on the leash. Very difficult when a king wave hits, but might help in smaller swell.
8. Paddle with other guys. Obvious?? Think how often you have started in a group and eventually separated over a long downwinder. Throw in some swell and you may or may not see another paddler. If one person capsizes, or loses their ski, you won't necassarily be seen
9. Respect the ocean. Easy to say. Amazing though, just how fast and badly things can deteriorate. Isn't that power one of the reasons we love the sea? One of my personal rules is wariness when currents or swell are moving offshore. And finally, for those who believe, pray. And be thankful.