Changing to wire rudder cables?

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9 years 11 months ago #23074 by Newbflat
Has anyone gone from Dyneema (or whatever synthetic) to wire rudder lines? Or switched back and forth? I don't like the vagueness of my Dyneema lines on my skis and people seem to praise the feel of the rudders on Huki and Fenn skis. I do remember how much better feeling the rudder lines are on a sea kayak ( never had a ski with them on). I'm thinking of changing to wire... So, why is the the best idea ever! And why the worst? ... Any thoughts.

Bill

FENN Bluefin S
FENN Swordfish S carbon hybrid
Epic V8 double gen 2
Lot and lots of DK rudders.


Had:
Stellar SEL excel (gen 2)
Stellar SR excel (gen2)
Stellar S18s g1 (excel)
Epic V10 Double (performance)
Stellar SR (gen 1)
V10 sport (gen 2)
V10 (Gen 2)
Beater SEL (gen 1)

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9 years 11 months ago #23076 by Bill L
I have used all kinds. It is neither the best or worst idea; just trade-offs. Stainless steel has virtually no stretch compared to synthetics, so you get instant response and control. You get some delay with synthetics (but I think the Q-power that Think uses has less stretch than dyneema line – but still some, compared to steel).

It is relatively easy to restring synthetics, usually no tools required, just a passable skill at knotting.

Stainless steel, despite the name, does suffer some corrosion over time, and, since it is braided strands, corrosion can happen within the braid, making it harder to detect – when they let go, they just go. Synthetics are more prone to abrasion on the outside, perhaps easier to detect (assuming the line is inspected from time to time). Still, best to replace any type of line on a periodic basis.

In the case of flat-water or small wave paddling, I don’t think the steering delay is an issue, so my personal preference is to opt for a synthetic just because they are easier to maintain.

Where I believe there is a noticeable difference is when you are paddling big water that requires turning to carve across the face of waves in order to link your runs – the responsiveness of the wire is nice to have in that situation. Of course, the better the paddler one becomes, the less the type of equipment matters compared to the paddler (i.e., for the top paddlers, it is probably makes little difference).

While you could conceivably re-tie a synthetic if it breaks while you are out paddling, it would still be a pain, especially in heavy seas, so you need to ensure you have some type of backup device to allow steering if you break either type of line.

Not sure if I have helped. The one thing I do know is that while I love the responsiveness of steel, I so wish it was synthetic when it comes time to change it.

Bill L

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9 years 11 months ago #23079 by Newbflat
Well I have some different feelings about many of the things mentioned. First, I think that most of what people like about stainless wire for rudder lines comes from the feedback you get from them. Because wire works on both tension and compression you get a very different feel in the peddles. More a push pull feel and not just push. Plus there is information transmitted threw the wire that just isn't in soft synthetic 'dead' line. If properly used and treated none of these materials be it wire or synthetic have any appreciable stretch and even less given the loads on the line, we are talking 1-2mm stretch only with hundreds of pounds of load.

I'm not worried about crevice corrosion as I would change the wire every two years. Just like synthetic.

All the synthetic lines out there be it Q-power or Dyneema have the same or less stretch than stainless rope. Some like Q-power are a parallel core, hard cover kernmantle type construction and Dyneema ( and type) a hollow core single bradded construction. Both are made of UHMPE or some form of super long chain polyethylene. All are super strong and have very very little stretch. When used as rudder line, effectively no stretch as the loads are very small. The odd line out is the hollow cored braided lines like the Dyneema seen on lots of skis like my Stellar's and my V10. The only real issue with this line is that it hasn't been loaded and packed before they install it in a ski. Because of the construction (like a Chinese finger puzzle) this line needs to be loaded so that the braid packs down and stays. When done it will be a smaller diameter, stiffer and harder. At this point it will not 'stretch' any more as the now packed braid has no place to go ( just like a Chinese finger puzzle stretched out) . The fibers in Q-power do not need this as the construction of the line isn't braided ( at least the core). Bit there is nothing special about the fibers, the fibers in Dyneema are just as stretch resistant and the line fine if loaded and packed.

So if you have hollow/ single braid Dyneema or are replacing it with the same, you should preload it with as much weight as you can before installing ( within reason). At least you own and better two peoples body weight. It will do away with any 'stretch' in the line. This is standard practice for running and standing rigging on small sailboats. The stuff is cheap and it is expected your going to do this, at least in the small sail boat world. Epic, Stellar and who ever else uses it should really at least use the pre stretched and coated versions of this line as it would most likely be indistinguishable from Q-power in feel... But that would cost an extra buck or so.

I'm more looking for people's experiences on if they changed to wire, if it worked out for them and why, or why they changed back to synthetic.

FENN Bluefin S
FENN Swordfish S carbon hybrid
Epic V8 double gen 2
Lot and lots of DK rudders.


Had:
Stellar SEL excel (gen 2)
Stellar SR excel (gen2)
Stellar S18s g1 (excel)
Epic V10 Double (performance)
Stellar SR (gen 1)
V10 sport (gen 2)
V10 (Gen 2)
Beater SEL (gen 1)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Watto

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