Fenn Pedal System update

I am hoping to get tips or guides on how to modify the old cable system on the Fenn pedals to one where I don't need to carry an Allen key around with me when I need to adjust the leg length between my son and myself.

I know that I can purchase the whole new foot rest, however, I was advised that it is a complex exercise and may not be worth it.

Has anyone modified it themselves in a simple way such as drilling a few holes on the pedals and threading cord through them and attaching this to the wire without having to change the whole system?

Thanks a lot in advance.

Merry xmas and happy paddling.

Huki has a system where the cables have little bb sized beads every centimeter or so that you can slide into a slot on the pedal that holds it in place.

From the Huki.com website: "If you are trying to find cables for a canoe or surfski produced by other companies, please contact Jude by email before making your purchase. We have a variety of cable sizes and end fittings, as well as alternate solutions".
Jude's e-mail is This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Should be no problem to change the system to auto adjust.

Cut the Stainless steel cables and put thimbles at the outlet in the front, about 100mm from the exit point as is some Fenn's already have.

Drill the peddles 4mm about half way down on the edge below existing hole, smooth the holes off very well. you are basically done.

Tie 2-3mm dyneema or similar to thimbles on Stainless Steel Cables, feed through top hole that has the plastic tubing, feed through hole middle of peddle and then around the Stainless Steel or composite peddle hinge pin and then tie off on the plastic grommet the bungee cord is held on in the front of cockpit.

Simple!

Thank you very much for the detailed response.
I really appreciated.
A project for this holiday break.

Merry xmas

Ranga's method is a bit simpler, but, here is my solution that I applied to my last four ski's with no regrets. Makes for minute pedal angle adjustments sans tools, knots etc, and instant leg length adjustments that can be done while paddling. Well of course, with some balancing issues. Easier on shore. Replace cable with Dyneema. Drill a couple holes in pedals. Mount micro sailing dinghy jam cleats to deck in front of the foot pedals.

There is a fundamental flaw in your design. But don't be too fussed as some manufacturers also don't understand the fundamentals of physics and geometry, Hence you just copying them and thinking it being correct!

The bottom hole is in the wrong place. If you want the auto adjust system to work the cord HAS to be on the hinge pivot point on the bottom. If not, on every pedal movement the cord has to get longer when retracting and shorter when applying pressure, this will cause quite a lot of force on the cord for no reason. The cord exiting the pedal at the back SHOULD be static on the FULL motion of pedal movement.

What I do is just feed the cord around the hinge pin, at least it's a lot closer to centre with only being 3mm off.

Thank you very much again for the explanation.
Would you please show a photo of yours if you have a chance?
Cheers
Rodrigo

Thanks Ranga, Makes perfect sense. Easy enough to remedy.
Curious to see if I will notice a difference. Guessing it will allow the pedal assembly to adjust/slide easier. Not to difficult now though.
Your right, I just copied a Think set up, except for the jam cleats of course.

Fath2o wrote:

Thanks Ranga, Makes perfect sense. Easy enough to remedy.
Curious to see if I will notice a difference. Guessing it will allow the pedal assembly to adjust/slide easier. Not to difficult now though.
Your right, I just copied a Think set up, except for the jam cleats of course.

Any reason you went for jamb cleats rather that a single barrel adjuster connecting the two ends? Is there an outside chance of loosing steering if cord should slip out of a jamb cleat for any reason?

More nit picking - ideally the path of the cord as it goes between the bottom hole in the pedal and the anchor point at the front of the bucket should be parallel to the rail on which the footplate slides. If the line is not in parallel with that rail, then making adjustments to leg length will cause changes in the angle of the toe pedal such that longer leg length is the more the pedals will tip back towards the paddler and vice versa. Probably not a big deal if the lines are only a little off parallel and the footplate is not being adjusted huge amounts.

Waverider, the only experience I have with the barrel adjuster was on a Think Evo that I demoed around 15 years ago. From what I remember, the line was a very thin diameter and the adjuster had a very limited adjustment range, It also was some what tedious to adjust. I wasn't impressed. Also, I had/have no idea such a device is still available. I used to paddle in very extreme conditions. Most of my paddling now is done riding waves in the surf line. I have not had the line slip out of the cleats.
Yes, had some minor slippage a couple times on another ski that made the pedals uneven. That line was a bit slippery. The system that I pictured has had zero issues. I believe this line has more friction. I would not trust the smaller diameter line that was installed on the ski I paddled with the barrel adjuster.
And to answer your question; Yes, there is always a chance that your steering system is going to have catastrophic failure and you should be prepared to deal with that. A line slipping out of a cleat is a very simple instant repair requiring no tools vs a broken rudder line, broken foot pedal hinge, loose rudder post nut, broken rudder, pedal assembly ripping out of your ski, etc. At the very least, it is wise to carry a shim to wedge your rudder in a locked position to allow you to get back to shore. An emergency bunjicord steering system may be a better option though. It's a good idea to have an adjustable cleat system with that as well. Those bunjicords weather and wear out.
I'm confident a search here will find more info on emergency rudder systems.
Don't know what difference it makes, but. I started paddling/competing in surfskis about 37 years ago and fist paddled a Larsen waveski 52 years ago.

Hey Zach, Yeah I think that is part of the beauty of the cleat system.
It is SO easy to MICRO and MACRO adjust the pedal angle.

Regards, Kirk

Totally agree the barrel adjuster is limited in adjustment and fiddly. Not a hugefan of them. The one on my epic is at the extreme end of travel, if I wanted to open it up any further it would need new longer lines installed. Your set up allows for more surplus line to be left. Definitely quicker to adjust. I guess a further option would be to have the end tied off somewhere loosely with enough slack to allow adjustment at the grip, so that if the grip let go then line would not come loose completely and you would still have steerage even if that pedal was not finely tuned.

The barrel adjusters are standard on K1s so still in common supply, Standard on epics skis.

Actually thinking about it a cleat at the rear would make it quicker and easier to attach an emergency bungy at the back as its one less knot to worry about (new epics have a leash point for this purpose that would require tying), or taking up slack on a pretied one. A clip and a length of bungie. No knots to worry about if you are bobbing around in the water at the back of your ski in lousy conditions, especially if you have had to remove leg leash to reach there. I leave the cap off already.

If you dont have a bungy, then cut a bit off deck or bulkhead bungy..

A bit off topic, but useful thought anyway

Here's the cleat I prefer for the E steering bunji set up. May well work for rudder cables, but, haven't tried this type with the Dyneema cord. Afraid it may not hold as well? Would prevent cable from popping out with big knot or tassel.
Did not have luck posting image of a "Barton 52120 tubular 6mm jamming cleat" Easy to look up on Ebay for $7.00

FYI

I have back-fitted almost all my skis with the thin cord that Think uses: Q-power line - an advantage it has is that it is stiff enough to push through the rudder line tubes.

Anyway, I mount micro-cleats: www.clamcleat.com/fine-line-port.html
on the backside of each pedal - works great although I think Fath2o's setup might be slightly easier to adjust - I typically do not adjust.

on my legend:
picasaweb.google.com/1147859305585606869...dderLineAndPedalMods

Very nice! If I remember right ? I had the same set up on my old V10. Cleats mounted on back of pedals. Less clutter Too!

You know it is all about setting your ski up to suit your personal preferences and where and what type of paddling you do.

I am not the author of this post, but just a quick thank you from me as well to all that have shared their tips and photos of their setups. I am also in the midst of planning this mod to my Fenn, when I came across this post.

Just a follow-up question, if I were to replace my SS cables with Dyneema or Q-Powerline, what is the benefit (if any) of keeping the bungee cords at the back of the pedals?

My ski (an old Fenn XT, 10+ years old) has bungees but the only purpose I think they serve is to stop having loose SS cable ends rattling around in the cockpit. My thinking is that I would no longer need bungees if I were to use rope/line cleated to the back of the pedals.

I don't necessarily think they are needed, so just personal preference I think, but I tend to add forward bungees to keep the pedals centered.

On my fenn spark

@Bill L: Thanks for explaining it further and providing more photos.

Just to confirm what I'm seeing - on the Fenn you have the rudder line going through a single hole in the pedal directly into the micro-cleat? I take it this setup doesn't slip given that you've stuck with it?

And a couple of more questions if you don't mind:
- the white plastic or nylon looking tubes where the rudder line feeds through the pedal - are they standard Fenn parts or perhaps something you have added/replaced?
- The grey textured tape (?) - I take it that is some kind of non-slip tape from a hardware store?

Sorry for all the novice questions. I just got my first proper ski (old Fenn XT) a week ago so all this stuff is completely new to me.

First of all congratulations on your new journey. Surfski paddling is a terrific fulfilling activity. One of the beauties it is a sport that just keeps getting more enjoyable as your skills constantly improve. The XT is/was one of my favorite surfskis. I had the same double footwell model that I actually loved to it's demise. It was a basket case when I sold it for $45.00. Unless your ski already has a large surf rudder and you plan to downwind or surf, I highly recommend you obtain a 9.5" DK rudder , for it. That ski becomes unmanageable and broaches in even mild downwinders. The rudder placement is to far back for the stock shark fin rudder. I had a 10" elliptical Think rudder that worked great in all conditions. Had tons of fun riding boat wakes too.
So as far as bungees on foot pedals go. One of the benefits of the bungees keeping the pedals centered or pulled forward, is to allow easier entry of your feet into the slot between the foot strap and the pedal. In rough conditions or in surf, say close to being trashed on a rock jetty, it is beneficial to be able to remount as quickly and easily as possible. Trying to squeeze your feet into the pedal slot and straighten out the rudder can be an additional challenge and distraction.
And by the way, the difference between BIll L ' s set up and mine is, you will have to release and readjust the rudder cables every time you move the foot block assembly. With the system I posted rudder line adjust
isn't necessary.
Good luck!