Changing To A Different Leash

I wanna ditch my coil type calf leash in favor of something that's hopefully more dependable ... perhaps some kind of line, strap, tubing, bungee etc. ... and attached to my pfd or waist. Any ideas how best to do it? I have some ideas of course ... but maybe there's a consensus on what works best.

Thanks!

KenB

I use a Mocke belt leash.

It comprises the usual coiled leash attached to my footstraps or leash anchor point (depending on the ski) and the belt.

I modified it to have a quick release buckle - I pull a small lanyard and the leash just falls off the belt.

The reason I prefer the belt to a calf leash is that I came off a ski in Mauritius, a smallish wave hit the ski and wrenched my leg, twisting my knee. Bloody painful.

In any case, if you're going near surf, you should always remove the leash - you don't want to be attached to the ski if and when it's hit by a big wave.

You say you want something more dependable than the coiled leash - you could, I guess, use rope but of course it'll be looser and more in the way than the coiled leash. If you do use rope, I'd recommend a section of bungee at one end to act as a shock absorber.

For my paddle, I use exactly that - a 4mm line attached to the paddle that clips onto a bungee which wraps around the footstrap. If I have to take a wild brace, the bungee reduces the shock when the line stretches taut.

Rob, do I Correctly understand you use both paddle and body leash at the same time?
J.

Correct.

I leave the body leash off sometimes - if the weather is not hectic.

But in big open ocean conditions I've been in situations where a) I've definitely not wanted to lose the boat - hence the body leash and b) it's been useful to be able to let go of my paddle (eg when assisting someone else).

So - coiled leash to me; line to the paddle.

Do they tangle? Nope - I've had some spectacular swims that have seen the boat roll and the leashes wrap around, but I've never taken more than a few seconds to sort the leashes out before remounting.

But the priority is definitely not to lose the boat. So if you use a single leash, I'd recommend body to boat before paddle to boat.

In more gentle conditions, a paddle to boat leash is better than nothing and I almost never paddle without it.

Cheers
Rob

Robin,

Your setup sounds about what I was thinking ... but I've never seen a Mocke belt leash here in the states. Given that there have been reported failures of the coiled leashes ... what is it about yours that makes you trust it? All I've seen over here is short thin coils (used on skis) and long thick coils (used on SUP's).

Thanks!

KenB

I think that if I'm hit by a wave big enough to snap both leashes, then I probably wouldn't want to be attached to the ski anyway, because I might snap instead!

My philosophy is that there's no single system that will guarantee my safety, but every precaution that I take alters the odds in my favour. So that includes wearing the right clothes, a PFD, taking my handheld VHF along, and even just being fit - and courageous enough to say "no I'm not going, it's more than I can handle" (which I have done once or twice).

So - my coiled body leash might break, but I might be able to hang onto my paddle leash (as I did in a big shore break situation last year in Durban - the leash eventually broke but I was able stop my ski braining another paddler in the surf).

Both leashes might break (and then I'd be in deep poo) but I'd have my PFD keeping me afloat, my flares to pop off and my VHF (and mobile as standby) to call for help.

Note that I don't necessarily carry ALL this stuff ALL the time. I always wear my PFD and almost always have my paddle leash. The rest I vary according to the route and the weather. I usually only take everything if we're going offshore in big downwind conditions.

So I guess the answer is that I don't trust the coiled leash 100% - so I have backup plans!

I had a coiled leash made by a surf company and the first big wave stretched it to the point where I could no longer use it (even heating it didn't return it to it's coiled shape). Given that it was buggered I thought I would do some strength testing with a mate's test setup that they use to test fishing braid.

The PU leash broke at about 25kg load (tested several sections) so not particularly strong but given the nature of PU it absorbs shock well. The leash was 4mm.

Last time I visit South Africa I went to Dawid's shop and bought a load of gear including 2 of his coiled leashes which are about 5.5mm. They appear to be pretty bullet proof and have survived some big waves. No stretching and no breakage. Hard to get hold of but well worth while.

Huki have a leg/calf leash and Jude is very helpful and can ship worldwide.

Mine is 5 years old and still in great condition.

Have a look at these leashes. They have a calf leash, body leash or both option and a patented quick release system that will not scratch you ski when remounting.
www.fitnesspaddlers.com.au

I always replace the nylon cord with 3mm spectra. It has a ridiculous breaking strain, can be long enough to allow me to reach the front of my boat....so I can swim it from the nose and if a rudder cable breaks can be used as an stop gap cable. After surfing most of my life, I don't trust leg ropes. They always snap when you need them most. It's hard to know if the nylon has degraded until it fails, which is usually when you need it most.

I remember this kitesurfing leash being used for surfski from the Baja surfski group. Looks pretty damn sturdy.

surfskibaja.blogspot.com

KenB5, I think you can order the Mocke leash gear from Dawid's site and he will ship international. If not, I bought mine from a German surfski site and they shipped it to me in S.C. no problem.