Drying out ski - tips

Hi, this is probably more aimed at spec ski paddlers, however my spec ski has put on a bit of weight recently due to a couple of small leaks. I am wondering if anyone has any tips on drying out the internals of the ski to help it reduce it's weight?

Thanks

To add to this question. I have a carbon vacuum Mako 6 that I bought used, here in Florida. It takes on about 85 to 125 ml (1/3 to 1/2 cup) of water in a session.Is this about normal what with splashing of chop during a session and the occasional swamping?

What is strange is that I can not seem to draw a comparison between time on the water and volume taken on board.

Also, due to storage issues (I don't have any), I store it upside-down in the garden in the shade and after measuring the water taken out after my previous session, when I come to use it again, it seems to have a bit more water in it.

Could this just be condensate or is this leeching out of the layers.

Any information or other paddlers experience would be welcomed.

I gotta say, my boat is dry.

Water can only get in if air can get out somewhere, or you are flexing the hull to create pumping when it is upturned in the water.

Plug the breather hole and take a test ride and see if it still takes on water.

If it stays dry with the breather plugged, then I suggest that a longer capillary be fitted.

Blow into the ski with a few good breaths and plug it immediately as you remove your mouth, to pressurize the hull. Do this in a quiet area. Now listen for a hissing sound. This will be your leak. It may be above the water line, possibly in the seat. If it is a pinhole leak, just put a drop of resin on it. This is pretty common, and very easy to fix.
The skis that gain weight have wood bulkheading. Older spec. skis used wood. They now use closed cell foam, which won't gain weight. I know of no way to dry the interior after the water is poured out.

Here is some leak testing info from Huki.

www.huki.com/index.php?page=Testing_For_Leaks

I had a leak around the drain hole, a little epoxy sealed it right up. I like the 4 or 6 inch round hatches found on some surf skis, works good for drying out the interior space.

I agree the best option is top keep all sea water out of the hull but there will surely be some condensation inside from Humidity and changing temperatures .

The most common areas for spec skis to gain weight is for water( from a crack?) to enter(and not leave) coremat layers through a porous woven inner reinforcement skin (usually glass 6oz/yd2 or 200g/m2) Of course wood will drink water and also white cellular EPS does too

I've got in touch with the distributor of the ski, he suggests flushing out the ski with fresh water and detergent as he says that the additional weight is caused by build up of salt. By washing it out with fresh water and draining it over a couple of weeks, the weight should reduce. I'll keep you posted.

Well the best way to dry the ski out is to have an inspection hatch fitted, so you can sit it in the sun and let it dry by evaporation. Drive around with it on your roof on hot days with hatch out.

First you need to find where it is getting in and stop the leak. One of the best ways is to get some warm freshwater mixed with a detergent (not to strong or hot as you will damage ski) pour the mixture into you ski bung hole. Shack the mixture right through the ski, this will help break down the salt build up (salt attracts water adding weight). Now blow air into the hole and put in bung, this will help you find any leak as soapy water will show up at the leak points.

Once you have fixed the leak rinse with fresh water and (if you have not got an inspection hatch) start to slowly drain water out through bung hole….a slow process. Best to put ski in sun on hot days on an angle so water drains to one point then repeat the draining out through the bung hole, over and over. Good Luck