Replacing Fenn SS cable with dayneema/spectra rope

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone has ventured this before? Replacing Fenn SS cables with dayneema/spectra rope.

Recently I've restored an old spec ski (Spectrum) for my kids and replaced cable with rope. Works fantastic.

However, Fenn cabling looks a little bit complicated and not sure if replacement affects performance. Would like to tap into your collective wisdom. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

search the archive , there is a whole long thread on this. I am doing this exact thing right now on a huki ski using q-power spectra ( think uses this stuff and it doesn't stretch like the dynemma.). you will have to mess around with the right knots and connections at foot pedals. Think has a little self equalizing tension thingy that might be used in your re-fit (if you can find one). I don't pass my ski around much so once set for centered rudder I can just tie it off at the desired pedal angle.Spear fisherman and para/kite sailers use the stuff and you want the 600# test . It's hard to find by the foot (just got mine for .25 cents afoot from awindofchange.com , they are in Las Vegas US , all other sources I could find required buying a 500' spool , $$$$$ , good luck

Thanks Sandy. I did go through the archive before I embarked on the replacement job on my spec ski. However, I can't recall if there is anything about Fenn steering cables. Fenn skis come with a short bungee tensioner which I'm not sure how to work around.

Dayneema/spectra ropes are availble in Sydney and not so dearer.

Thanks for your contribution to the collective wisdom

Kind regards,

Note that some paddlers do away with the bungy tensioner on the Fenn setup with the steel cables.

Dear KG,

Could you please elaborate, new in the trade (fresh boarder).
If you take the bungee bit off what the pedals are held with? Don't they fold down?
What's the alternative?
Cheers,

If you take the bungee bit off what the pedals are held with?

Your feet.

Yes Hiro nailed it, personally I run the bungy but others don't, just putting it up there as an option.

Thanks to all contributors. Looks like I've embarked on a Easter Holiday Project. Love this forum!!! Happy Easter!!!!

SUBLOKE , here is the attachment at foot pedals , A small shackle through a hole in edge of pedal , the rudder line tied on with a clove hitch ( easy to micro-macro-adjust

tried it out today and it worked great

the line threads through the pin with a stopper knot at the tail so if the pin backs out it won't be lost

Thanks very much Sandy for your photo. Would it make any difference if I tie the cord onto the pedal itself without using the shackle? Wanted to go metal free as it may rust.
cheers,

Hi
That shackle is not pulling straight and will eventually cause wear problems. You can tie the cord directly onto the pedal however you would have to inspect regularly for wear. I think the best solution would be a 316 stainless steel 2mm or 3mm thimble fitted through the pedal hole with the cord running around the thimble.

If you use 316 stainless it will not rust even in salt water. Most sailing shops would stock small thimbles.

Shvsnd-if the force was greater I would agree with you , considered the thimble , this was easier and unlike tying direct to the pedal is readily adjustable. If you tie to the pedal be sure to knock town any sharp edges where the cord runs or it well likely wear/abrade/fail . Also be sure to do the same on the rudder yoke , I found some small diameter nylon sleeve that I cut down and used as a "bushing" in the hole in the yoke that the rudder line attatches to . The shackle is stainless and the pedal is aluminum , always rinse with fresh water to hold galvanic corrosion at bay , the ski will be toast way before this happens

Thanks both of you, Sandy and Svn, for all the technical details. However, I think, as I got carbon pedals, I'll rather tie the spectra directly onto the pedal instead of using any metallic components.
Cheers,

You could make some additional holes in the foot pedals and have a continuous cord, if you want to be even more minimalistic. This will allow you to adjust the leg length without having to untie and redo any knots. I did this with my Synergy and only had two knots at the rudder t-piece. I've attached a sketch of what I mean, if you'll excuse the amateur artwork. The trick is to get the bottom hole as low as possible (best to go under the hinge) so that pedal movement does not place stress on the rope between the pedals and the fastening points in the cockpit, if that makes sense.

Pete,
You're a creative genius!!!!
The sketch looks like a piece of art work!!! Should patent this design!! When you gonna design your own ski?
Very much appreciated indeed.

You're too kind... Nothing new here, just a bit tweaked.

Hi there

Any advice for how to thread cord/rope through the tubes on a Fenn - in particular getting the cord though that little black cover in the cockpit? Because the inner tube doesnt run all the way to the hole in the little black cover...

I've managed to successfully convert my Elite and my wife's Bluefin to 3mm Dyneema and had to develop the technique as I progressed. What worked well in the end was as follows:

• Drill out the cable hole in the black cover in the cockpit to 4mm
• Use thin electrical multicore wire, pushed through from the cockpit end, to pull the Dyneema through (it takes a bit of trial and error to line the wire up with the cable tube)
• Strip the end of the electrical wire to expose the copper strands
• Burn the end of the Dyneema and roll it in your fingers to make a smooth end to the rope
• Divide the copper stands of the wire in two and tie it around the end of the Dyneema. The trick here is to get it as close as possible to the end without it slipping off when pulled.
• Pull the wire back through and hopefully the Dyneema will follow.